Bride and Mistress of Cities

Today I ate lots of ice cream and illegally streamed Grey's Anatomy for emotional release in fiction. My experiences in Hebron, which I will talk about another day (it has something to do with this, was one of those days where you realize that there are so many simply amazing individuals in the world, who are quietly and bravely legitimizing humanity and its potential. I'm reminded of that when the old gentleman on the corner takes it upon himself to look out for the well-being of this silly American girl, or the people who live in adversity everyday but still find beauty in their surroundings, those who go out of their way to walk someone home, or even just the younger men on the bus getting up to provide a seat for the elder gentleman. I love it, I love it so much. Even on days like this. I'm openly naive and well aware of my sheltered lifestyle, but I love people, because for every one person who just sucks (and make me hope evolution will eventually get it right), there are two that just blow you away with how awesome they are. (I tried to put that more eloquently, but failed). Goodness, I just took sappiness to a new level. No worries, I am retreating back to my normal non-emotional, introverted self now.

I realized that I really haven't given a good look at what daily life looks like for me living in Jerusalem. I love the fact that simple, mundane, daily activities are the things I currently relish most. My current home, Citadel Hostel, is this beautiful 500-year old home near Jaffa Gate in the Old City. It is like walking into a medieval miniature castle decorated Arab-style, with the comforting musty smell and stone walls. The men working the desk morning and night know me by name (I'm becoming a fixture here), and there are always the most fascinating individuals to have conversations with. The 16-bed dorm room I sleep in (and have set up a nice little corner home for myself) is a huge room with vaulted ceilings, and I am right next to a window overlooking the walkway, and I am woken up in the morning to church bells. Probably the best thing about calling this home is the roof view overlooking the Old City. Most evenings after work, I come home with either Amoun's leftover food or some pita and fruit, pick up a book, and listen to the Call to Prayer over the city while watching the sun set. So unreal.

Walking to work everyday is one of my favorite things ever- I walk through the Old City to Damascus Gate, which is through the Muslim Quarter. I walk by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and part of the path of the Via Delarosa, through the bustling Arab shops and market. The smells are to die for- all of the food, spices, and random unknowns (althoug the meat shops with the fully skinned pigs outside of them and the fish leave some to be desired)- the shop keepers recognize me now, so I get friendly good morning hello's. I grab hot pita and an orange for breakfast every morning from the same places, and love knowing exactly the cost and being able to walk up and pay like I know what I am doin. Being able to get fresh fruit and vegetables everyday with such ease and at such little expense is something I know I am going to miss- grocery stores can't even begin to compare. I take the Arab busline out to Shufaat, a middle class Palestinian neighborhood in East Jerusalem. I'm the first one there, so open up and eat my orange, pita and honey, while doing the oh-so-much fun administrative stuff. Batul and Amar arrive around 11 am, and being the hellions that they are, I don't get much accomplished after that- most of my time is spent keeping them from hurting themselves or destroying the center. Apparently, Amoun trusts me to handle them on my own- she doesn't show up until 1ish. We fill the time going to get 'booza' or ice cream, and playing dress up (funny, I'm always the one getting dressed up...)

After Amoun arrives, she cooks a huge meal, and we all sit down and eat. There are often visitors to the center, from Finnish people, Mormons, Gypsy documentarians, photographers, and Amoun's many friends. In the afternoons, I do the English work- the first week, it was impossible for me to get anyone to just practice English with me outside of the required school work- which is critical for them to actually get the language. This past week, I came up a with an awards system for successful daily English lessons- if they sit down with me and complete my assigned lessons, they get a sticker and a shekel a day, to which in the end they can spend on something they want (Leila clothes, Heba books, Batul sunglasses, Amar hair clips, Yasr watches, etc.) For a little while I was a little unsure of wether I wanted to award them with money for something of this nature, but then I realized that everything these kids get is second-hand or not at all- and I make it rigorous enough that if they take the time during their summer to sit down with me, they deserve it. Now i just have to find the shekels. I've found that vowels are the biggest issue, so Dr. Seuss and 'Hop Pop' and 'Cat in the Hat' have become my best friends. I'm going to be able to recite those books by the end of this.

After cleaning and my lessons in domestication (I'm chastised constantly for my pathetic cleaning skills), my day at the center is done, and I head back for my sunset meal or a little tourist action around the city. And that is the routine I've settled into- and I love it. I'm excited to actually get to the interviewing part- and while Amoun and friends of the center hopefully won't be a problem, because of the very closed nature of the community, I'm obviously not going to be able to talk to as many Gypsies that I would like to outside of those I have met and talk to regularly-but I'm going to remain optimistic.

So I know this was a slightly dull post, but it's what I do! I'm learning so much here- I've started putting some of the actual research analysis together, and I'll eventually share the less-boring parts with ya'll. 'Til then, I've made friends with a gentleman here, Ismael, who writes poetry and studies English and literature, and has a love obsession with Jerusalem. He is wonderful, and is loaning me books on Palestinian Arabic and has offered to meet with me weekly to help (for free!) He's also helping me translate my documents. Here is his poem, Bride and Mistress of Cities...Jerusalem. If anything, it gives an idea of how this city inflames the passions of many because of the significance it holds for many who have always called it home, and those who just now do so. One thing to remember, this was originally written in Arabic- so the translation can't fully do it justice.

Between hills it is vainglorious and by heaven amazement and coquette bride...
Adornment with the stars of heaven.
Blessed by the highest god and ennobled by the prophets.

By her name the birds responding in the morning
And in the evening the doves cooing over its walls
And dozing and the kids dozing between its bosom

My spirit united with your spirit
As the light united wit light...no darkness
As the water united with water...no thirts
Death cannot separate us
Nor anyone can kill our love
Bride once more...more fondling and coquettish
Jerusalem city of lights.

By my spirit I soar to you
My feet rushing to your doors everyday
Flying high...far...far...with the breeze
Takes me the smell of incense and perfumes
In the markets...in the yards...and every courtyard.

I ascend the balconies which waves to me by the falgs
Of peace...flags of love and rejoice
And promise happiness.

As the spirit carries the seeds of love to you and planted
I carry my spirit and plant its growth and blooms
When seen by eyes

With sunrise I kiss every piece of your land
And with evenings full moon I whiser my passionate love.
By your love I am king and you are my queen
And the queen of hearts everywhere...Jerusalem

Full of promise I will stay on your love Jerusalem
Your love is everlasting
When everything is gone everything extinct

Gay bright mroe and more coquettish
Bride and Mistress of cities
City of prophets...city of soaring...city of lights.