Today, I went to Jericho, near the Dead Sea, with Amoun for a girls' day and to run a few errands (like buy four trash bags of vegetables and fruits, since it is insanely cheaper). We hit a checkpoint, where they always, and I mean always, check your ID. We drove up, I was getting out my passport when Amoun rested her hand on the wheel, lazily yet full of confidence and force leaned out of the window, and said to the Israeli guard, Shalom, happy feast! (in Hebrew). And they just waved us on through. Even though everyone else in front of us had to stop. I looked at her in amazement, and said, 'how did you do that?' Her response: 'Dear, you just have to act like you occupy them.' She rocks.
So I have yet to talk about Hebron, although it was a week and three posts ago. Hebron is the largest city in the West Bank, and is one of the stark, visual representations of the clashes between settlers and Palestinians on a daily basis. There are over 80 Jewish families living in a settlement in Hebron, literally in some instances on top of Palestinian homes and businesses. Since the settlers arrived in 1948, there have been numerous clashes and conflicts in the city, with deaths on both sides. The settlers refuse to leave (Hebron is considered the second holiest city in Judaism), and the Palestinians face severe security and economic limitations because of their presence. In 1997, the Hebron Agreement divided the city into two zones, H1 and H2. H1 is controlled by the Palestinian Authority, and H2 is the under the jurisdiction of the Israeli government and settlers. Yet over 30,000 Palestinians (and around 500 Jews) lived in the area deamed H2, and on a daily basis they find their lives severely limited. Many of the Arab businesses were shut down (for example, the pad locked doors), they are unable to freely move from their homes, face curfews, and must enter and exit multiple checkpoints on a daily basis. They can't even bring an ambulance in.
When we were walking around, we saw many visual examples of the constant clashes- 'Death to Arabs' written in Hebrew, graffiti, security cameras, watchtowers, bullet holes, and barbwire. When we were walking through a open-air market, there was a covering above to keep the trash and concrete blocks thrown by the settlers from hitting the Palestinians below (pics). We also had to turn around at one point from the direction we were walking, because Israeli soldiers were man-handling a Palestinian at a checkpoint, and the soldiers were shooing everyone away from visual sight.
We ended up meeting a man who's brother was a local activist and peace advocate. He invited us into his home, (and when we were standing outside, we could literally see and hear the settlers above the foliage on the hill) and described his work. He showed us videos shot on cameras given to them by B'tselem, and we saw settlers throwing rocks at Palestinian school children, and the verbal and physical abuse they deal with on a daily basis. These people have to keep steel-iron bars on their windows for protection, and find their property vandalized on regular occasion. I was getting mad, but all this man did was sit there and advocate peace. That's it. Non-violent resistance.
I cannot adequately describe the feelings of that day. I don't really want to analyze, defend, or argue. I think it all speaks louder than my words could convey.
And on that note, I had this conversation this week with a guy who was an IDF soldier in Hebron.
There is a folklore in Jewish mythology of a creature known as גולם, or 'Golem,' which is made of inanimate objects to become alive with the task of protecting the Jewish population. The most popular story is that of a Rabbi in Prague creating one to protect the ghetto against anti-semitic attacks. It came alive when the the word written on his forhead, 'met', translated as 'dead', added an alif (making the word 'emet', which made it 'truth'. The myth is that the alive Golem, while protecting the Jewish population, was not particularly smart, but performed according to instructions and with no emotion or connection. An Israeli here explained this story to me after I asked about his Hebrew tattoo, which was 'emet'. The meaning for him was twofold: one, he was a journalist, and it was a commitment and representation of everything he had ever written being the absolute truth. Two, it was his feelings about his relationship with the army and his country. From the beginning of his reluctant participation in the army, and continued contribution to it for over 20 years, he saw himself doing so as a 'golem'. He does it for the good of what he loves, but just goes through the motions and follows the instructions, without enthusiasm, forgetting what he had to see and do as a part of his role in protecting his understanding of Jewish society and 'identity'. To make the connection, in his former posts in Hebron, he was responsible for keeping both sides from killing each other, and therefore witnessed some of the worst on a daily basis. After speaking with him on multiple occasions, he is helpful, thoughtful, intelligent, funny, and all around an awesome dude. Yet this was part of who he is....and dramatic drum roll into the identity discussion!
Note: So this part post might be a little boring for some, delving a just a little of the rough- of the beginning- of the don't judge me yet-research stuff- but it is here by request of others. Much love.
I think the golem story is one of many examples demonstrating how impossible it is to box this stuff up in a nice, neat package. The more I try to tap into trying to understand it, the more 'Israeli identity' makes me want to throw my hands up in frustration. It's something that has captured a huge part of my project, as I look at the Gypsies. It's something that inadvertently shapes conversations such as the one above. I have a feeling such individuals exist on all sides, side-stepping humanity as 'golems' for a while to promote and protect that definition of identity (note: my interpretation, he didn't actually say the whole humanity thing). And it breaks down in so many ways, not only 'Arab' versus 'Jewish'. Much of the literature breaks it down into 4 national cleavages: 'Arab-Jewish', 'ethnic-class', 'religious-secular', and 'left-right'. Jerusalem is the central-point of this calsh of cleavages, encompassing all of these 'identities' in a city of 750,000, and what it means for how it uniquely defines the operation of such a centralized governmental structure. There is a lot of awesome literature on this, but I won't bore it with you here- just a taste.
It is within this clash of different identities that i find the Gypsies so interesting. As the golem example indicates, the stand-offs of identity and its connection with this land are intense and passion-driven (all about stating the obvious...). How does this small community, that most Israelis don't even know exists, fit into all of this? Today, looking at the most discussed cleavage, Arab-Jewish. They are Muslim. Some of the women wear the hijab. They speak Arabic, listen to Arabic music, and eat Arab food. Their families are spread throughout the West Bank and the Gaza Strip. They are not identified separately by the Israeli government as a minority, and the average Israeli wouldn't be able to tell the difference between an Arab and a Gypsy. Most hold identity cards, rather than Israeli passports. In the few instances they do marry outside of the Gypsies, it is often to an Arab.
But they are not accepted by the Arab population. They refuse to take a political stance of pick a side (despite prodding on my part). Personal examples demonstrate they do not always take the side of their Arab neighbors. Some of the children go to schools run by the Palestinian Authority, some to schools run by the municipality. The center finds much of its support from the Jewish population (many on the board are), and their persecuted pasts, including the Holocaust, and search for a homeland, creates a sense of understanding the Gypsies draw upon in their relations with the Jewish population.
I try to pick up on Amoun's dialogue to decipher how she sees herself and her community. On a few occasions, she will reference the Arab culture and include herself in that description (she is half Egyptian, her family being one of the few examples of marrying outside of the community). But more often than not, it's Gypsy- and she pulls on the differences between Gypsies and Arabs often. She makes a concerted effort to not take sides- she won't join the Palestine facebook community, or the Israeli one for that matter. When we talk about news stories, she calls out both sides and their exaggerations.
Yet when it comes to the cultural stuff, it is obvious that they find stronger identity with their Palestinian neighbors, although how far that translates into political and social spheres is debatable. I think a part of their resistance is to maintain that Gypsy identity that has been seeping away after years of both self-afflicted and societal-enforced assimiliation, in response to avoiding descrimination and changing lifestyles.
Anyway, this is one angle I am looking at for research- but there is still a hell of a long way to go, and more stuff for me to research, and more ideas to change, and more 'duh, you sound like an idiot' stuff for me to edit in terms of concepts and analysis. The goal is to further explore through the oral histories.
So I know who the cool people are that made it through this post, and the next time I ask you 'what is the arabic word for ice cream?' and you say 'buuza,' you get a special prize :)
And pertinent quote of the day on my blog: It is justice, not charity, that is wanting in the world. – Mary Shelley (1797-1851)
Friday, May 29, 2009
Thursday, May 28, 2009
When It's Done, We'll Walk Where the Road Meets the Sun
I can now say I have left something of value in Israel. The girls now know the Macarena, from start to finish. They pronounce it more 'macaroni', but they have got the moves down, apparent through the repeated performances throughout the day. Mission accomplished.
Israel Update (for some context):
Israel isn't a fan of Hilary Clinton, and is going to continue building settlements in the West Bank. Woohoo diplomatic freeze.
There is a new bill in the Knesset in Israel by right wing policy makers to 'outlaw' the denial of the Jewish state of Israel- or better put, "call to negate Israel's existence as a Jewish and democratic state, where the content of such publication would have a reasonable possibility of causing an act of hatred, disdain or disloyalty." It is mostly aimed at Israeli-Arabs, and would mean that public displays of 'Nakba', or the catastrophe (name for the birth of the Israeli state) would be illegal and punishable with prison. Oh, the ever changing definition of 'democracy' and 'free speech.'
My favorite commentary of the week (it's good). My favorite song of the week, with all kinds of abstract symbolism I pulled from it AND it has the violin. Love it. ( for those of you looking for a mood description). And to keep going on this strand of thought, movie of the week. Mostly because I'm using parts of Mulan to teach the girls English (they love walking around repeating Let's Get Down to Business...) I might have some feminist motivations, as well...
The Jewish holiday Shavout is this weekend, where hundreds of thousands of Israelis are expected to take part in the traditional nighttime Torah studies for tonight's tikkun leil Shavuot. (I stole that from Haartez). From what I've gathered, the secular Jews flock to the coast and holiday destinations, and the religious ones flock to the Old City (in this case, the Western Wall). Therefore, I'm looking forward to a Pope repeat of fun and transportation limitations due to my convenient location. I'm kind of excited though, its my first Jewish holiday!
This week at the center has been an interesting one- not to get all self-evaluating here or anything, but I accept the fact it takes a while for me to warm up to people (unapproachable, it has been called). This week, I think, was the first week that I felt completely at home and in turn, they felt at home with me. Amoun has started to confide in me, and has shared her tears and frustrations (and there are legitimately a lot). We make fun of each other, and she has no problem openly criticizing me (most often my clothing choice and cleaning skills...although in my defense, these people clean hardcore, sweeping, mopping, scrubbing, three times a day). While the open arms of welcome were always there, as individuals and personalities, we are clicking. Honestly, most of it had to do with me allowing Amoun to fuss over me. It has now become her mission to 'fix my skin/scars,' and play matchmaker (oi). Today, I got a Gypsy remedy for scars, which included raw eggs, carrots, and honey smathered on my face for a half hour, and a 'special' oil. She evaluated the progress all day, chattering in Arabic with the other women about it (not to make me self conscious, or anything). The girls have found a morbid fascination with it as well, with (Anti jamilla jidan, lakin hadda mish jamil....(point and tsk, tsk, tsk). I now have diet demands, including carrots for breakfast and khalas with the hummus and falafel (I cheat). She is also flabbergasted I'm not seeing anyone (tsk, a girl like you?-although the quality versus quantity argument gained me some points back). She is determined to connect me with a former volunteer, who is now galavanting around China, informing she sent an email to him that she had found him 'the beautiful, smart one' he is looking for. Oh fantastic. I'm just grateful she is aiming for someone I'll never meet, rather than a family member or something.
Oh, and she cut my hair today. Maybe a better way to put it is chopped it off- apparently I need a new look, as well?
Exams are almost over, which I am excited about, because that means we can actually start on English lessons they will actually use. The program used by the Palestinian Authority of the State of Palestine (legit, its on their textbooks) is abysmal. Amoun learned fluent English by peddling postcards on the street, and not a lick of it from actually going to school. Some students from BYU are starting to volunteer next week, and I'm going to be working with them to develop a two month program based on real-world application (rather than learning the names of farm animals that don't even live in the Middle East). I'm really excited about it.
SO much more to talk about, but my battery is dying and I left my transformer at the center. Tomorrow, I head to Jericho with Amoun to deliver some humanitarian aid to some of the Gypsy families there.
Kudos to everyone who just made it through this post.
Israel Update (for some context):
Israel isn't a fan of Hilary Clinton, and is going to continue building settlements in the West Bank. Woohoo diplomatic freeze.
There is a new bill in the Knesset in Israel by right wing policy makers to 'outlaw' the denial of the Jewish state of Israel- or better put, "call to negate Israel's existence as a Jewish and democratic state, where the content of such publication would have a reasonable possibility of causing an act of hatred, disdain or disloyalty." It is mostly aimed at Israeli-Arabs, and would mean that public displays of 'Nakba', or the catastrophe (name for the birth of the Israeli state) would be illegal and punishable with prison. Oh, the ever changing definition of 'democracy' and 'free speech.'
My favorite commentary of the week (it's good). My favorite song of the week, with all kinds of abstract symbolism I pulled from it AND it has the violin. Love it. ( for those of you looking for a mood description). And to keep going on this strand of thought, movie of the week. Mostly because I'm using parts of Mulan to teach the girls English (they love walking around repeating Let's Get Down to Business...) I might have some feminist motivations, as well...
The Jewish holiday Shavout is this weekend, where hundreds of thousands of Israelis are expected to take part in the traditional nighttime Torah studies for tonight's tikkun leil Shavuot. (I stole that from Haartez). From what I've gathered, the secular Jews flock to the coast and holiday destinations, and the religious ones flock to the Old City (in this case, the Western Wall). Therefore, I'm looking forward to a Pope repeat of fun and transportation limitations due to my convenient location. I'm kind of excited though, its my first Jewish holiday!
This week at the center has been an interesting one- not to get all self-evaluating here or anything, but I accept the fact it takes a while for me to warm up to people (unapproachable, it has been called). This week, I think, was the first week that I felt completely at home and in turn, they felt at home with me. Amoun has started to confide in me, and has shared her tears and frustrations (and there are legitimately a lot). We make fun of each other, and she has no problem openly criticizing me (most often my clothing choice and cleaning skills...although in my defense, these people clean hardcore, sweeping, mopping, scrubbing, three times a day). While the open arms of welcome were always there, as individuals and personalities, we are clicking. Honestly, most of it had to do with me allowing Amoun to fuss over me. It has now become her mission to 'fix my skin/scars,' and play matchmaker (oi). Today, I got a Gypsy remedy for scars, which included raw eggs, carrots, and honey smathered on my face for a half hour, and a 'special' oil. She evaluated the progress all day, chattering in Arabic with the other women about it (not to make me self conscious, or anything). The girls have found a morbid fascination with it as well, with (Anti jamilla jidan, lakin hadda mish jamil....(point and tsk, tsk, tsk). I now have diet demands, including carrots for breakfast and khalas with the hummus and falafel (I cheat). She is also flabbergasted I'm not seeing anyone (tsk, a girl like you?-although the quality versus quantity argument gained me some points back). She is determined to connect me with a former volunteer, who is now galavanting around China, informing she sent an email to him that she had found him 'the beautiful, smart one' he is looking for. Oh fantastic. I'm just grateful she is aiming for someone I'll never meet, rather than a family member or something.
Oh, and she cut my hair today. Maybe a better way to put it is chopped it off- apparently I need a new look, as well?
Exams are almost over, which I am excited about, because that means we can actually start on English lessons they will actually use. The program used by the Palestinian Authority of the State of Palestine (legit, its on their textbooks) is abysmal. Amoun learned fluent English by peddling postcards on the street, and not a lick of it from actually going to school. Some students from BYU are starting to volunteer next week, and I'm going to be working with them to develop a two month program based on real-world application (rather than learning the names of farm animals that don't even live in the Middle East). I'm really excited about it.
SO much more to talk about, but my battery is dying and I left my transformer at the center. Tomorrow, I head to Jericho with Amoun to deliver some humanitarian aid to some of the Gypsy families there.
Kudos to everyone who just made it through this post.
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Pics
Hello all!
1. New pics are up- on the left side of the blog. Explanations for Hebron forthcoming. I'm just slow.
2. I need more than another month here. I need more than another six.
3. There are an exuberant number of self-proclaimed know-it-alls here and its driving me crazy. No, you are not the leader that has been missing. No, you will not bring both sides to their senses. No, being an American 'with perspective' does not make you better apt to do so. So stop talking about it. Please. I'm an idealist, really, but the swoop-in-and-save-you mentality gets no one anywhere. Learn, understand, play whatever small role works for you in activism, research, or interest- but stop telling me how you can fix it. Go do something.
Or let me know when Abbas and Netanyahu want you to sit down for tea. Then you can tell me to stuff it.
4. Gypsies rock. They have been discriminated against for generations because everyone else was jealous. Khalas.
Disclaimer: Take this post as me blowing off steam.
1. New pics are up- on the left side of the blog. Explanations for Hebron forthcoming. I'm just slow.
2. I need more than another month here. I need more than another six.
3. There are an exuberant number of self-proclaimed know-it-alls here and its driving me crazy. No, you are not the leader that has been missing. No, you will not bring both sides to their senses. No, being an American 'with perspective' does not make you better apt to do so. So stop talking about it. Please. I'm an idealist, really, but the swoop-in-and-save-you mentality gets no one anywhere. Learn, understand, play whatever small role works for you in activism, research, or interest- but stop telling me how you can fix it. Go do something.
Or let me know when Abbas and Netanyahu want you to sit down for tea. Then you can tell me to stuff it.
4. Gypsies rock. They have been discriminated against for generations because everyone else was jealous. Khalas.
Disclaimer: Take this post as me blowing off steam.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Lion's Gate Welcome
1. Just got out of a cab with a friend who speaks Hebrew, and after I stopped zoning out and paid attention (since the extent of my Hebrew is mazel tov and leila tov) , realized he was Arab, and then conversed in Arabic which a) means I'm getting the Palestinian dialect down enough for very, very general convos and 2) cab drivers are the coolest people in all countries (insert 'Gypt reference).
2. So every article on the front page of Haaretz online today concerned terorrism, the Holocaust, or nuclear weapons. Every. Single. One-minus the one about a Jewish poet pretending to be Arab (gasp!). And it's the liberal paper. I know I've mentioned this before, but thought I would do so again to demonstrate how much I was not kidding. Daily dose of fear, anyone? I do enjoy the Jewish World articles, though.
3. I got to see Orthodox Jews dancing to techno music the other day.
4. Turns out, there IS a Minister for Minority Affairs in Israel- Avishay Braverman of the Netanyahu government is the first individual to hold the post since it was abolished after one year of existing in 1949 (the first year after independence). The post was officially reestablished in March of 2009, making it less than 4 months old. What has it done? Not a clue. Can't find anything about it anywhere outside of the fact it exists. Why does this matter? I want to talk to him since the Gypsies, while a minority, are not recognized so by the Israeli government, but simply as 'Arab.' At the same time, when it comes to aid distribution and certain benefits as a minority in the state of Israel, the Gypsy population often does not receive or benefit from them. The chance of me actually getting to do this? Pretty close to zero. But still- the creation of this post is intriguing, although the lack of news coverage suggests its in name only. Braverman himself went to Stanford for economics, worked for the World Bank in DC and served President of Ben-Gurion University for a number of years. He ran for the Knesset in '06, and is now serving in the Netanyahu government (even after calling for the Labor Party, which he is a part of, to not join the government). Anyway, the reason for sharing this is (1) I'm looking for more info (please share!) and (2) I thought it was kinda cool.
5. My summers in the Middle East have officially warped my thinking. As my clothing supply ran drastically low, I had to wear long shorts, that came a little bit above my knees. I was FREAKING out the entire day, completely self conscious about how much skin I was showing.
One Foot in the Door
So I guess I should give a little more follow up on my last post. While I have been working at the center for about three weeks now, I hadn't been officially invited to their homes yet. While Amoun may be the epitomy of Mother Theresa when it comes to welcoming people with open arms, the community at large still remains rather close knit and protective from outsiders. It was mostly the kids- since I live in the Old City as well, (just on the opposite side near Jaffa Gate, while their community is mostly at Lion's Gate), one of the dads drove me back, and then I helped them carry some stuff up a side alleyway to a compound. At that point, I was literally dragged in by the kids. All of one extended family lives in one compound- Grandma, Grandpa, sons, daughters, aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. It is a lot like college suites, Arab-style. Each family has their own 'apartment,' and they all share a small yard. The one I saw was occupied by Amoun's family. First, Heba pushed me into her family's apartment- she shares a bedroom with her brother Yasr, and then there is a kitchen, a parents bedroom, and a small living room. Most of the others are set up in similar fashion- some of the kids have beds, some don't. There was little furniture in the cramped corners, but if there was, it was obviously second-hand. Yet there was such obvious pride in what they did have- something I have noticed at the center, as well. They take such care of everything they have, through preservation and appearance- which is a completely alien concept to me as a self-identified slobovian. This extended-family style of living is typical (Amoun, even though she is a single woman without a family, still lives in this compound, and it would be unacceptable for her to do otherwise)- yet I think I would go crazy if it were me- people just walk in and out of each others rooms and apartments, no privacy, and your family knows EVERYTHING happening in your life. Yet at the same time, they are all so close, and that inescapable familiarity with one another also means they can read a face or sentiment, and clear out when space is needed or respond when a hug is desired. But still, it would drive me crazy.
Anyway, apartment one I got juice, apartment two I got rice and some weird gooey substance, apartment three fruit and coffee. They own two computers (one recent donated one and one from the 1980's), and it was automatically assumed I would know how to fix them. Right.
I felt so welcome- and elated as I was told literally 6 times by one father that I was invited back everyday, anytime. It was my home as much it was theirs'. And this is what elicited the all-caps previous post.
While walking away (and brilliantly twisting my ankle in the process), I realized how important this home was to this family- Gypsies are often assumed wanderers (although the name refers to an ethnic as well as cultural), but this group developed a lifestyle in this city, settling there over 300 years ago. In this little corner of one of the most disputed and fought over territories in the world, this small community was just attempting to scratch out an existence to be able to continue living in the place they called home. They have to fight for their homes- yet not just from the government (some of their homes have been demolished because they are 'illegal') but from the Arab population trying to kick them out. I heard a reporter recently ask Amoun why they dealt with the sky-rocketing rent costs and difficulties of Old City life, when they could easily move elsewhere. This is their home- not because of political, ideological or religious reasons, but simply because it is their home, where they had grown up, run the streets, and learned to live- and they would do everything they could to keep it that way. I'm hoping to find out more on how the territorial struggles of Israelis and Palestinians externally effect this little corner of the Old City- so more to come!
And then, within the next 24 hours, some mole hills turned into mountains in terms of accomplishing the project, mostly to do with stretched time and resources and Amoun reaching her breaking point in what she can take from the community, friends, and society. More on why will be coming in a later post when I talk about some of the Gypsy community stuff, but in an attempt to limit the increasingly exorbitant length of these posts and to preserve your sanity, I'll stop for now- but I'll be getting to Hebron and general research info soon, promise!
2. So every article on the front page of Haaretz online today concerned terorrism, the Holocaust, or nuclear weapons. Every. Single. One-minus the one about a Jewish poet pretending to be Arab (gasp!). And it's the liberal paper. I know I've mentioned this before, but thought I would do so again to demonstrate how much I was not kidding. Daily dose of fear, anyone? I do enjoy the Jewish World articles, though.
3. I got to see Orthodox Jews dancing to techno music the other day.
4. Turns out, there IS a Minister for Minority Affairs in Israel- Avishay Braverman of the Netanyahu government is the first individual to hold the post since it was abolished after one year of existing in 1949 (the first year after independence). The post was officially reestablished in March of 2009, making it less than 4 months old. What has it done? Not a clue. Can't find anything about it anywhere outside of the fact it exists. Why does this matter? I want to talk to him since the Gypsies, while a minority, are not recognized so by the Israeli government, but simply as 'Arab.' At the same time, when it comes to aid distribution and certain benefits as a minority in the state of Israel, the Gypsy population often does not receive or benefit from them. The chance of me actually getting to do this? Pretty close to zero. But still- the creation of this post is intriguing, although the lack of news coverage suggests its in name only. Braverman himself went to Stanford for economics, worked for the World Bank in DC and served President of Ben-Gurion University for a number of years. He ran for the Knesset in '06, and is now serving in the Netanyahu government (even after calling for the Labor Party, which he is a part of, to not join the government). Anyway, the reason for sharing this is (1) I'm looking for more info (please share!) and (2) I thought it was kinda cool.
5. My summers in the Middle East have officially warped my thinking. As my clothing supply ran drastically low, I had to wear long shorts, that came a little bit above my knees. I was FREAKING out the entire day, completely self conscious about how much skin I was showing.
One Foot in the Door
So I guess I should give a little more follow up on my last post. While I have been working at the center for about three weeks now, I hadn't been officially invited to their homes yet. While Amoun may be the epitomy of Mother Theresa when it comes to welcoming people with open arms, the community at large still remains rather close knit and protective from outsiders. It was mostly the kids- since I live in the Old City as well, (just on the opposite side near Jaffa Gate, while their community is mostly at Lion's Gate), one of the dads drove me back, and then I helped them carry some stuff up a side alleyway to a compound. At that point, I was literally dragged in by the kids. All of one extended family lives in one compound- Grandma, Grandpa, sons, daughters, aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. It is a lot like college suites, Arab-style. Each family has their own 'apartment,' and they all share a small yard. The one I saw was occupied by Amoun's family. First, Heba pushed me into her family's apartment- she shares a bedroom with her brother Yasr, and then there is a kitchen, a parents bedroom, and a small living room. Most of the others are set up in similar fashion- some of the kids have beds, some don't. There was little furniture in the cramped corners, but if there was, it was obviously second-hand. Yet there was such obvious pride in what they did have- something I have noticed at the center, as well. They take such care of everything they have, through preservation and appearance- which is a completely alien concept to me as a self-identified slobovian. This extended-family style of living is typical (Amoun, even though she is a single woman without a family, still lives in this compound, and it would be unacceptable for her to do otherwise)- yet I think I would go crazy if it were me- people just walk in and out of each others rooms and apartments, no privacy, and your family knows EVERYTHING happening in your life. Yet at the same time, they are all so close, and that inescapable familiarity with one another also means they can read a face or sentiment, and clear out when space is needed or respond when a hug is desired. But still, it would drive me crazy.
Anyway, apartment one I got juice, apartment two I got rice and some weird gooey substance, apartment three fruit and coffee. They own two computers (one recent donated one and one from the 1980's), and it was automatically assumed I would know how to fix them. Right.
I felt so welcome- and elated as I was told literally 6 times by one father that I was invited back everyday, anytime. It was my home as much it was theirs'. And this is what elicited the all-caps previous post.
While walking away (and brilliantly twisting my ankle in the process), I realized how important this home was to this family- Gypsies are often assumed wanderers (although the name refers to an ethnic as well as cultural), but this group developed a lifestyle in this city, settling there over 300 years ago. In this little corner of one of the most disputed and fought over territories in the world, this small community was just attempting to scratch out an existence to be able to continue living in the place they called home. They have to fight for their homes- yet not just from the government (some of their homes have been demolished because they are 'illegal') but from the Arab population trying to kick them out. I heard a reporter recently ask Amoun why they dealt with the sky-rocketing rent costs and difficulties of Old City life, when they could easily move elsewhere. This is their home- not because of political, ideological or religious reasons, but simply because it is their home, where they had grown up, run the streets, and learned to live- and they would do everything they could to keep it that way. I'm hoping to find out more on how the territorial struggles of Israelis and Palestinians externally effect this little corner of the Old City- so more to come!
And then, within the next 24 hours, some mole hills turned into mountains in terms of accomplishing the project, mostly to do with stretched time and resources and Amoun reaching her breaking point in what she can take from the community, friends, and society. More on why will be coming in a later post when I talk about some of the Gypsy community stuff, but in an attempt to limit the increasingly exorbitant length of these posts and to preserve your sanity, I'll stop for now- but I'll be getting to Hebron and general research info soon, promise!
Saturday, May 23, 2009
AHHHHHHHHH
I GOT INVITED TO THEIR HOME!!!!!!!!!!! IT WAS AMAZING!!!!!!!!! AND THEY TOLD ME I'M WELCOME ANYTIME!!!!!!!!!! I GOT FOOD AND HUGS AND KISSES AND I'M GOING TO MEET THE MAYOR OF JERUSALEM AND TO VISIT THE GYPSY COMMUNITIES IN THE WEST BANK AND IN CONTACT WITH MEMBERS OF THE BOARD!!!!!!!
This is a big deal for me, if you didn't catch that....Before the last two days, I was getting anxious about things falling into place, if I would actually be able to pull this off. But its okay, its going to work. Maybe not exactly the way I saw it--but its going to happen.
Mk that's all for now- Happy Memorial Day!!!!!!
This is a big deal for me, if you didn't catch that....Before the last two days, I was getting anxious about things falling into place, if I would actually be able to pull this off. But its okay, its going to work. Maybe not exactly the way I saw it--but its going to happen.
Mk that's all for now- Happy Memorial Day!!!!!!
Friday, May 22, 2009
Bride and Mistress of Cities
Today I ate lots of ice cream and illegally streamed Grey's Anatomy for emotional release in fiction. My experiences in Hebron, which I will talk about another day (it has something to do with this, was one of those days where you realize that there are so many simply amazing individuals in the world, who are quietly and bravely legitimizing humanity and its potential. I'm reminded of that when the old gentleman on the corner takes it upon himself to look out for the well-being of this silly American girl, or the people who live in adversity everyday but still find beauty in their surroundings, those who go out of their way to walk someone home, or even just the younger men on the bus getting up to provide a seat for the elder gentleman. I love it, I love it so much. Even on days like this. I'm openly naive and well aware of my sheltered lifestyle, but I love people, because for every one person who just sucks (and make me hope evolution will eventually get it right), there are two that just blow you away with how awesome they are. (I tried to put that more eloquently, but failed). Goodness, I just took sappiness to a new level. No worries, I am retreating back to my normal non-emotional, introverted self now.
I realized that I really haven't given a good look at what daily life looks like for me living in Jerusalem. I love the fact that simple, mundane, daily activities are the things I currently relish most. My current home, Citadel Hostel, is this beautiful 500-year old home near Jaffa Gate in the Old City. It is like walking into a medieval miniature castle decorated Arab-style, with the comforting musty smell and stone walls. The men working the desk morning and night know me by name (I'm becoming a fixture here), and there are always the most fascinating individuals to have conversations with. The 16-bed dorm room I sleep in (and have set up a nice little corner home for myself) is a huge room with vaulted ceilings, and I am right next to a window overlooking the walkway, and I am woken up in the morning to church bells. Probably the best thing about calling this home is the roof view overlooking the Old City. Most evenings after work, I come home with either Amoun's leftover food or some pita and fruit, pick up a book, and listen to the Call to Prayer over the city while watching the sun set. So unreal.
Walking to work everyday is one of my favorite things ever- I walk through the Old City to Damascus Gate, which is through the Muslim Quarter. I walk by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and part of the path of the Via Delarosa, through the bustling Arab shops and market. The smells are to die for- all of the food, spices, and random unknowns (althoug the meat shops with the fully skinned pigs outside of them and the fish leave some to be desired)- the shop keepers recognize me now, so I get friendly good morning hello's. I grab hot pita and an orange for breakfast every morning from the same places, and love knowing exactly the cost and being able to walk up and pay like I know what I am doin. Being able to get fresh fruit and vegetables everyday with such ease and at such little expense is something I know I am going to miss- grocery stores can't even begin to compare. I take the Arab busline out to Shufaat, a middle class Palestinian neighborhood in East Jerusalem. I'm the first one there, so open up and eat my orange, pita and honey, while doing the oh-so-much fun administrative stuff. Batul and Amar arrive around 11 am, and being the hellions that they are, I don't get much accomplished after that- most of my time is spent keeping them from hurting themselves or destroying the center. Apparently, Amoun trusts me to handle them on my own- she doesn't show up until 1ish. We fill the time going to get 'booza' or ice cream, and playing dress up (funny, I'm always the one getting dressed up...)
After Amoun arrives, she cooks a huge meal, and we all sit down and eat. There are often visitors to the center, from Finnish people, Mormons, Gypsy documentarians, photographers, and Amoun's many friends. In the afternoons, I do the English work- the first week, it was impossible for me to get anyone to just practice English with me outside of the required school work- which is critical for them to actually get the language. This past week, I came up a with an awards system for successful daily English lessons- if they sit down with me and complete my assigned lessons, they get a sticker and a shekel a day, to which in the end they can spend on something they want (Leila clothes, Heba books, Batul sunglasses, Amar hair clips, Yasr watches, etc.) For a little while I was a little unsure of wether I wanted to award them with money for something of this nature, but then I realized that everything these kids get is second-hand or not at all- and I make it rigorous enough that if they take the time during their summer to sit down with me, they deserve it. Now i just have to find the shekels. I've found that vowels are the biggest issue, so Dr. Seuss and 'Hop Pop' and 'Cat in the Hat' have become my best friends. I'm going to be able to recite those books by the end of this.
After cleaning and my lessons in domestication (I'm chastised constantly for my pathetic cleaning skills), my day at the center is done, and I head back for my sunset meal or a little tourist action around the city. And that is the routine I've settled into- and I love it. I'm excited to actually get to the interviewing part- and while Amoun and friends of the center hopefully won't be a problem, because of the very closed nature of the community, I'm obviously not going to be able to talk to as many Gypsies that I would like to outside of those I have met and talk to regularly-but I'm going to remain optimistic.
So I know this was a slightly dull post, but it's what I do! I'm learning so much here- I've started putting some of the actual research analysis together, and I'll eventually share the less-boring parts with ya'll. 'Til then, I've made friends with a gentleman here, Ismael, who writes poetry and studies English and literature, and has a love obsession with Jerusalem. He is wonderful, and is loaning me books on Palestinian Arabic and has offered to meet with me weekly to help (for free!) He's also helping me translate my documents. Here is his poem, Bride and Mistress of Cities...Jerusalem. If anything, it gives an idea of how this city inflames the passions of many because of the significance it holds for many who have always called it home, and those who just now do so. One thing to remember, this was originally written in Arabic- so the translation can't fully do it justice.
Between hills it is vainglorious and by heaven amazement and coquette bride...
Adornment with the stars of heaven.
Blessed by the highest god and ennobled by the prophets.
By her name the birds responding in the morning
And in the evening the doves cooing over its walls
And dozing and the kids dozing between its bosom
My spirit united with your spirit
As the light united wit light...no darkness
As the water united with water...no thirts
Death cannot separate us
Nor anyone can kill our love
Bride once more...more fondling and coquettish
Jerusalem city of lights.
By my spirit I soar to you
My feet rushing to your doors everyday
Flying high...far...far...with the breeze
Takes me the smell of incense and perfumes
In the markets...in the yards...and every courtyard.
I ascend the balconies which waves to me by the falgs
Of peace...flags of love and rejoice
And promise happiness.
As the spirit carries the seeds of love to you and planted
I carry my spirit and plant its growth and blooms
When seen by eyes
With sunrise I kiss every piece of your land
And with evenings full moon I whiser my passionate love.
By your love I am king and you are my queen
And the queen of hearts everywhere...Jerusalem
Full of promise I will stay on your love Jerusalem
Your love is everlasting
When everything is gone everything extinct
Gay bright mroe and more coquettish
Bride and Mistress of cities
City of prophets...city of soaring...city of lights.
I realized that I really haven't given a good look at what daily life looks like for me living in Jerusalem. I love the fact that simple, mundane, daily activities are the things I currently relish most. My current home, Citadel Hostel, is this beautiful 500-year old home near Jaffa Gate in the Old City. It is like walking into a medieval miniature castle decorated Arab-style, with the comforting musty smell and stone walls. The men working the desk morning and night know me by name (I'm becoming a fixture here), and there are always the most fascinating individuals to have conversations with. The 16-bed dorm room I sleep in (and have set up a nice little corner home for myself) is a huge room with vaulted ceilings, and I am right next to a window overlooking the walkway, and I am woken up in the morning to church bells. Probably the best thing about calling this home is the roof view overlooking the Old City. Most evenings after work, I come home with either Amoun's leftover food or some pita and fruit, pick up a book, and listen to the Call to Prayer over the city while watching the sun set. So unreal.
Walking to work everyday is one of my favorite things ever- I walk through the Old City to Damascus Gate, which is through the Muslim Quarter. I walk by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and part of the path of the Via Delarosa, through the bustling Arab shops and market. The smells are to die for- all of the food, spices, and random unknowns (althoug the meat shops with the fully skinned pigs outside of them and the fish leave some to be desired)- the shop keepers recognize me now, so I get friendly good morning hello's. I grab hot pita and an orange for breakfast every morning from the same places, and love knowing exactly the cost and being able to walk up and pay like I know what I am doin. Being able to get fresh fruit and vegetables everyday with such ease and at such little expense is something I know I am going to miss- grocery stores can't even begin to compare. I take the Arab busline out to Shufaat, a middle class Palestinian neighborhood in East Jerusalem. I'm the first one there, so open up and eat my orange, pita and honey, while doing the oh-so-much fun administrative stuff. Batul and Amar arrive around 11 am, and being the hellions that they are, I don't get much accomplished after that- most of my time is spent keeping them from hurting themselves or destroying the center. Apparently, Amoun trusts me to handle them on my own- she doesn't show up until 1ish. We fill the time going to get 'booza' or ice cream, and playing dress up (funny, I'm always the one getting dressed up...)
After Amoun arrives, she cooks a huge meal, and we all sit down and eat. There are often visitors to the center, from Finnish people, Mormons, Gypsy documentarians, photographers, and Amoun's many friends. In the afternoons, I do the English work- the first week, it was impossible for me to get anyone to just practice English with me outside of the required school work- which is critical for them to actually get the language. This past week, I came up a with an awards system for successful daily English lessons- if they sit down with me and complete my assigned lessons, they get a sticker and a shekel a day, to which in the end they can spend on something they want (Leila clothes, Heba books, Batul sunglasses, Amar hair clips, Yasr watches, etc.) For a little while I was a little unsure of wether I wanted to award them with money for something of this nature, but then I realized that everything these kids get is second-hand or not at all- and I make it rigorous enough that if they take the time during their summer to sit down with me, they deserve it. Now i just have to find the shekels. I've found that vowels are the biggest issue, so Dr. Seuss and 'Hop Pop' and 'Cat in the Hat' have become my best friends. I'm going to be able to recite those books by the end of this.
After cleaning and my lessons in domestication (I'm chastised constantly for my pathetic cleaning skills), my day at the center is done, and I head back for my sunset meal or a little tourist action around the city. And that is the routine I've settled into- and I love it. I'm excited to actually get to the interviewing part- and while Amoun and friends of the center hopefully won't be a problem, because of the very closed nature of the community, I'm obviously not going to be able to talk to as many Gypsies that I would like to outside of those I have met and talk to regularly-but I'm going to remain optimistic.
So I know this was a slightly dull post, but it's what I do! I'm learning so much here- I've started putting some of the actual research analysis together, and I'll eventually share the less-boring parts with ya'll. 'Til then, I've made friends with a gentleman here, Ismael, who writes poetry and studies English and literature, and has a love obsession with Jerusalem. He is wonderful, and is loaning me books on Palestinian Arabic and has offered to meet with me weekly to help (for free!) He's also helping me translate my documents. Here is his poem, Bride and Mistress of Cities...Jerusalem. If anything, it gives an idea of how this city inflames the passions of many because of the significance it holds for many who have always called it home, and those who just now do so. One thing to remember, this was originally written in Arabic- so the translation can't fully do it justice.
Between hills it is vainglorious and by heaven amazement and coquette bride...
Adornment with the stars of heaven.
Blessed by the highest god and ennobled by the prophets.
By her name the birds responding in the morning
And in the evening the doves cooing over its walls
And dozing and the kids dozing between its bosom
My spirit united with your spirit
As the light united wit light...no darkness
As the water united with water...no thirts
Death cannot separate us
Nor anyone can kill our love
Bride once more...more fondling and coquettish
Jerusalem city of lights.
By my spirit I soar to you
My feet rushing to your doors everyday
Flying high...far...far...with the breeze
Takes me the smell of incense and perfumes
In the markets...in the yards...and every courtyard.
I ascend the balconies which waves to me by the falgs
Of peace...flags of love and rejoice
And promise happiness.
As the spirit carries the seeds of love to you and planted
I carry my spirit and plant its growth and blooms
When seen by eyes
With sunrise I kiss every piece of your land
And with evenings full moon I whiser my passionate love.
By your love I am king and you are my queen
And the queen of hearts everywhere...Jerusalem
Full of promise I will stay on your love Jerusalem
Your love is everlasting
When everything is gone everything extinct
Gay bright mroe and more coquettish
Bride and Mistress of cities
City of prophets...city of soaring...city of lights.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
“A culture is made -- or destroyed -- by its articulate voices.”
Yes, the title is a quote by Ayn Rand. No judging.
I had an epic conversation this evening overlooking the Old City (my normal position to watch the sun set) with an Israeli named Ben. Ben was chilling in my hostel for a week or so, and saw I was reading a book on the Israeli Polity and Community Space (for my research), and casually, in a very nonchalant way, mentioned if I wanted a native viewpoint, he would love to have a convo. Jumped all over that.
Ben is an Ashkenazi Jew, or of Eastern European origin. His father came to Israel in '49 from Germany, and left in '68 to settle in Los Angeles. His two older brothers were born in Germany, himself in Israel, and two sisters in America. He actually was educated in Los Angeles for university studies. Talk about a diaspora family. He is the only individual in his immediate family still in Israel, with an occupation in helping struggling businesses to improve their business methods through establishing their global network on the internet (he said it in a much more sophisticated manner, but that's my lamist terms).
He was just chilling in the hostel, where he knows the Palestinian owner- he helps out around the place while getting a free stay. Apparently this is normal for him- his uncle owns a hostel in Tel Aviv, which used to be the headquarters of Shin Bet (the internal security service). Anyway, he was a self-declared liberal Zionist, and while raised extremely religious, is relatively secular now. His pride for his country equaled my love for America (aka a lot). His two mandatory years in the army were with the Magav, or Border Police in Hebron and Jerusalem- which he described to me as being one of the most hated groups of Israeli security forces. He stayed on, and serves with the Magav for one month out of every year. It's not something he enjoys- even mentioning how the movie Waltz for Bashir was a reminder for him how much he suppresses his military experiences. But at the same time, as a Zionist, he sees it as an obligation and a part of being Israeli.
Our conversation ranged from the South in the US (for some reason people are interested in that here? Or maybe I think so since I'm so in love with it...woohoo he knew James Taylor and Carolina on my Mind!!!) to kunafa (he's a huge fan) to the study of language (and his wicked friend who knows 11 languages). Since my majors are big flashing red lights to what I am interested in, we also delved into security and cultural intersections. He expressed a lot of frustration at the fact most people never got to know the culture that he loves to much- as a country that in statehood terms was founded on immigrant populations from Africa, the Americas, and Europe, and existing local culture, the rich diaspora of food, culture, and traditions had formed a unique Israeli identity expressed through arts and Israeli daily life. He talked about the Tel Aviv music scene, such as the great reggae scene that's developed there with the Ethiopian population influence. But no one gets to see it outside of Israel- even his father, who spend around a decade here, saw his former home in the context of the Israeli-Arab conflict only.
My convo with Ben was huge for me- living in the Old City, riding the Arab busline, working in the Shufaat neighborhood of East Jerusalem, my exposure to the everyday Israeli has been limited--and I think a huge demonstration of how successful self-imposed division has been in this city, from efforts on both sides. Surprise, he knew nothing about the Gypsies, but was genuinely interested, and when I finished my now well rehearsed description of disenfranchisement and discrimination, he was like, 'yeah, that happens a lot here.' Not to over analyze, but I also picked up on how very different Tel Aviv is from Jerusalem, not even having been there. He talked about how his abrasive and open habits weren't acceptable here, and how to most in Tel Aviv, the decisive and overly-tension ridden atmosphere of Jersualem was worlds away (even the politicians choose to reside in Tel Aviv, even though Jerusalem is the capital). This was particularly interesting- I have heard people express anger at the fact this conflict doesn't phase the everyday Israeli as much as it should, particularly in the tactics used in the West Bank and Gaza, and the other idea saying the rest of the world is getting it wrong by only seeing Israel in terms of the conflict (for example, people still eat at McDonald's, even though we invaded two countries in the last 8 years....cough, cough). Someone could write a book about this (probably has), but Stephen Walk went ahead and had some good commentary on it.... I found this right afterwards in my daily google-readering, on efforts to 'rebrand' Israel through emphasizing its' dynamic culture, location, and identity. Overall: it isn't going to work. It's an interesting read, highly suggest.
So that was mostly a random throw together of a new perspective I gained tonight, and thought I would share- because this city is all about the perspective. In some cases, that's what it is mostly about. Actually, yeah, that's all its about.
On another note, the other girl interning with CFK this summer (where I will be at the end of June, in Kenya) is about to start!! Here is her blog, if you are interested: http://loizias.blogspot.com/
I had an epic conversation this evening overlooking the Old City (my normal position to watch the sun set) with an Israeli named Ben. Ben was chilling in my hostel for a week or so, and saw I was reading a book on the Israeli Polity and Community Space (for my research), and casually, in a very nonchalant way, mentioned if I wanted a native viewpoint, he would love to have a convo. Jumped all over that.
Ben is an Ashkenazi Jew, or of Eastern European origin. His father came to Israel in '49 from Germany, and left in '68 to settle in Los Angeles. His two older brothers were born in Germany, himself in Israel, and two sisters in America. He actually was educated in Los Angeles for university studies. Talk about a diaspora family. He is the only individual in his immediate family still in Israel, with an occupation in helping struggling businesses to improve their business methods through establishing their global network on the internet (he said it in a much more sophisticated manner, but that's my lamist terms).
He was just chilling in the hostel, where he knows the Palestinian owner- he helps out around the place while getting a free stay. Apparently this is normal for him- his uncle owns a hostel in Tel Aviv, which used to be the headquarters of Shin Bet (the internal security service). Anyway, he was a self-declared liberal Zionist, and while raised extremely religious, is relatively secular now. His pride for his country equaled my love for America (aka a lot). His two mandatory years in the army were with the Magav, or Border Police in Hebron and Jerusalem- which he described to me as being one of the most hated groups of Israeli security forces. He stayed on, and serves with the Magav for one month out of every year. It's not something he enjoys- even mentioning how the movie Waltz for Bashir was a reminder for him how much he suppresses his military experiences. But at the same time, as a Zionist, he sees it as an obligation and a part of being Israeli.
Our conversation ranged from the South in the US (for some reason people are interested in that here? Or maybe I think so since I'm so in love with it...woohoo he knew James Taylor and Carolina on my Mind!!!) to kunafa (he's a huge fan) to the study of language (and his wicked friend who knows 11 languages). Since my majors are big flashing red lights to what I am interested in, we also delved into security and cultural intersections. He expressed a lot of frustration at the fact most people never got to know the culture that he loves to much- as a country that in statehood terms was founded on immigrant populations from Africa, the Americas, and Europe, and existing local culture, the rich diaspora of food, culture, and traditions had formed a unique Israeli identity expressed through arts and Israeli daily life. He talked about the Tel Aviv music scene, such as the great reggae scene that's developed there with the Ethiopian population influence. But no one gets to see it outside of Israel- even his father, who spend around a decade here, saw his former home in the context of the Israeli-Arab conflict only.
My convo with Ben was huge for me- living in the Old City, riding the Arab busline, working in the Shufaat neighborhood of East Jerusalem, my exposure to the everyday Israeli has been limited--and I think a huge demonstration of how successful self-imposed division has been in this city, from efforts on both sides. Surprise, he knew nothing about the Gypsies, but was genuinely interested, and when I finished my now well rehearsed description of disenfranchisement and discrimination, he was like, 'yeah, that happens a lot here.' Not to over analyze, but I also picked up on how very different Tel Aviv is from Jerusalem, not even having been there. He talked about how his abrasive and open habits weren't acceptable here, and how to most in Tel Aviv, the decisive and overly-tension ridden atmosphere of Jersualem was worlds away (even the politicians choose to reside in Tel Aviv, even though Jerusalem is the capital). This was particularly interesting- I have heard people express anger at the fact this conflict doesn't phase the everyday Israeli as much as it should, particularly in the tactics used in the West Bank and Gaza, and the other idea saying the rest of the world is getting it wrong by only seeing Israel in terms of the conflict (for example, people still eat at McDonald's, even though we invaded two countries in the last 8 years....cough, cough). Someone could write a book about this (probably has), but Stephen Walk went ahead and had some good commentary on it.... I found this right afterwards in my daily google-readering, on efforts to 'rebrand' Israel through emphasizing its' dynamic culture, location, and identity. Overall: it isn't going to work. It's an interesting read, highly suggest.
So that was mostly a random throw together of a new perspective I gained tonight, and thought I would share- because this city is all about the perspective. In some cases, that's what it is mostly about. Actually, yeah, that's all its about.
On another note, the other girl interning with CFK this summer (where I will be at the end of June, in Kenya) is about to start!! Here is her blog, if you are interested: http://loizias.blogspot.com/
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